Review: Dunkirk proves it's more than just about the war

There was no escaping the fact that Dunkirk is a coastal town. An upside down umbrella flew past. This was not the day to be exploring outdoors. 

Our walking guide Elise met us at the hotel (the modern Hôtel Mercure right in the centre of town). 

She was non-plussed by the storm. "We will take the car and I will point out some places on the way," she casually said. 

Elise has lived in Dunkirk her whole life and is used to the occasional blasts of stormy weather. 

Jean Bart (Image: Kimberley Barber) Luckily for us, Dunkirk is a town steeped in history and charm, so we didn't have to go too far before we could dive into sanctuary of the Port Museum of Dunkirk. 

In its calm tranquillity, we learnt all about the town's fascinating maritime heritage. Housed in a former tobacco warehouse, the museum covers the town's seafaring past, with exhibits on shipbuilding, fishing, and trade.

It's also where Elise introduces us to Jean Bart - a fearless privateer and naval commander during the reign of King Louis XIV.

Even today, Jean Bart is something of a local hero. His legacy is commemorated by a statue in the town's Place Jean Bart, and his name is synonymous with Dunkirk’s proud naval tradition.

As we emerged from the musée maritime, the weather had started to clear, so we set about walking into town to see the Dunkirk Belfry, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This 58-meter-tall medieval structure offers panoramic views of Dunkirk and its surrounding countryside.

Jean Bart (Image: Kimberley Barber) We also stopped by to see Jean Bart's final resting place. As the weather cleared, the town started to become brighter. You could even see the bullet mark on the statue of Jean Bart's face, not done during the war, but damaged by a rogue bullet fired in celebration at its end.  

The next day, our taxi driver chuckled heartily when we told him we had arrived during the storm. 

He dropped us at Brasserie des 4 Ecluses a small brewery run by Eric, who quit a corporate job in the town's steel industry to start his own brewery and find happiness. 

He has been brewing for the past few years - slowly battling covid and lockdown restrictions to establish his business. And it's finally stating to see some success, with one of his beers given a gold Women's International Trophy earlier this year. 

He pours us tasters and talks passionately about his journey - and tells us why he believes that French beer is on the up. It's all about the flavour, and it's proving more popular with a younger generation of drinkers in France who are turning away from traditional wine, in search of something lighter. 

The beer is excellent - and we order as much as we can possibly bring back, one of the best parts about travelling to Dunkirk by car with P&O Ferries. Not only do we have our freedom, we also have a boot we can fill with beer. 

On our second day, with the sun now shining brightly, we check into the Radisson Blu Grand Hôtel & Spa Malo-les-Bains. A grand hotel on the seafront, with incredible sweeping views across the beach and out to sea. 

Exploring the town more, we stumble upon a busy market - there's everything on offer; fruit and vegetables, cheese, rotisserie chicken, clothes, chocolates - even the smartest umbrellas I have ever encountered.  

On our bikes (Image: Kimberley Barber) After an excellent lunch in the town at Le Grand Morien, near to Jean Bart's statute, on the fittingly named Place Jean Bart, we hire e-bikes from LVDK Location and set about whizzing down the promenade. 

We cycle for miles, zipping past tourists ambling along, and are nearly in Belgium before we stop for a beer and decide to return. This really is a way to pack in as much sight-seeing as possible. We take everything in, stopping at places such as the Dunkirk 1940 Museum and Fort des Dunes. 

Dunkirk is known internationally for its role in World War II, but the town, which bore witness to this massive rescue of Allied soldiers, is more than just the war. It's packed with history and packed with wonderful places to eat. 

During our stay we ate the most magnificent mussels at Le Grand Morien, a spectacular seafood platter on the front at L’Iode, and also a wonderful meal onboard the Princess Elizabeth, a cosy restaurant set on a paddle steamer which also saved 1673 soldiers during the Operation Dynamo. 

Dinner at L'Iode (Image: Kimberley Barber) As well as good food and drink, Dunkirk offers a compelling blend of historical insight and natural beauty, making it a perfect destination for those who wish to explore French history while enjoying the charm of a coastal town.

On our way back to Calais, we call in at Gravelines, a nearby town (another benefit of taking your own car on the ferry). Here we discover a beautiful black and white lighthouse, one of the best beef restaurants we've ever been in - L’Eclusier - where we are served juicy burgers, and we also took a relaxing boat tour around the moat of the fortifications with a tour from Vauban Promenade. 

This rounds off a jam packed weekend, where we have not only learnt a bit of history, we've also experienced French culture. And after tasting just how good that can be - especially Eric's beer - we can't wait to return again - à bientôt Dunkirk.

Beer tasting (Image: Kimberley Barber)

Fact box

• Radisson Blu Grand Hôtel & Spa Malo-les-Bains: Prices range from €129 to €350 per night.
• Hôtel Mercure Dunkerque Centre Gare: Prices range from €125 to €185 per night.

• Around 20 crossings per day allow you to reach Northern France from England with DFDS or P&O.
• By train (Eurostar + TGV), it is possible to travel from London to Dunkirk in just 2 hours.